|Dressed for dinner in days of yore. Dolphin Guest House in background|
We were in Nantucket for a couple days, and I've decided that July and August are not the months I want to be in Nantucket. Hordes and hordes of people. Almost as many vehicles, mostly SUVs, pickups and trucks. Lots of trucks. Bumper to bumper. Bicyclists on the sidewalks avoid the street. Restaurants so loud you need earplugs. Everything expensive. Too many people. Oh god, the people. We spent a ghastly amount of money, just 4 people and 2 days.
|When lobster was cooked outside by the docks. Site of current Ropewalk Restaurant|
The "traditional" ferry hasn't changed THAT much, except for, well, the airline type seats and wi-fi and did they always have an elevator? Leaving the harbor in Hyannis hasn't changed except that the houses look very well cared for and there are so freakin' many of them, like two feet apart. I love the house with its own lighthouse. The big monstrosity with the moorish arches is soooo out of place. What were they thinking? Where was the zoning board?
Coming into Nantucket one sees the familiar breakwater and the jetties. Big fat grey houses where some more modest ones used to be at Brant Point. A couple hold outs. When we first arrived in Nantucket, the harbor had rotting pilings and a ramshackle ferry dock. Everything up to date now, of course. In the old days when you returned from the beach in late afternoon and climbed into the shower, the power usually went out as half the people on the island did likewise. Now there's a new water tower and a new power plant. Lots of new stores. The Mad Hatter is gone, the Opera House is long gone. Ralph Lauren has a glitzy store where Nantucket Looms (now moved) used to be.
One never did and one still does not cringe at the sight of men in tank tops and black socks, so that is still a Good Thing. Downflake Donuts are now "mid-island," whatever the hell that means. Mostly powerboats at the slips, and a few atrociously big sail boats and I wonder if the sails on the current monstrosity are ever actually, like, unfurled.
When the poet asked, "where are the snows of yesteryear," he could have been speaking of The Far Away Isle. It's airport is the second busiest in Massachusetts. Private jets, don'tcha know. Just like East Hampton. Lots of trophy wives, flaunting their blond hair and skinny legs. Is this sour grapes? I used to have blond hair and skinny legs too. Without the bling, of course. Definitely without the bling.
There are still blond little kids begging for stuff at The Sunken Ship, and lined up for ice cream. Those places haven't changed either. Captain Toby's seems a shadow of itself and 21 Federal is now a pricey Italian restaurant that refers to itself as "affordable." One man's "affordable" is open to debate. It's the thought that counts, I guess. Ice cream cones are $8.00+ if you want large. Our local dairy store sells them for half that, but then when you see the trucks trundling on and off the ferry you understand why everything costs so much. Our former boarding house is now a private home, a duplex we think. The landlady's daughter baby sat for us. Ah, paradise, enow! I lost a good pair of sunglasses sailing over the Tuckernuck Shoals. Wonder how barnacle encrusted they are now. Those are pearls that were her eyes.
|The Ropewalk Restaurant on Nantucket's Dock|
One can thank the many preservation societies for acquiring so much open land, and not letting weird architecture and chain stores (except Ralph Lauren) get a foothold. By the way, the RL store Is Not your Macy's RL dept, but rather the store of the full page ads in the New York Sunday Times. Yowza!
|A more charming downscale Nantucket|